02 Sep

Posted at 10:03h in Pictures & Exhibitions by

“Homo Faber 2026 – An Island of Light”

Homo faber fortunae suae. Man is the maker of his own fortune, but also – and above all – of his ability to transform matter. This is the thread running through Homo Faber 2026 – An Island of Light, the fourth edition of the international biennial dedicated to contemporary craftsmanship, taking place in Venice from September 1 to 30.

Once again, the heart of the event is the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore, within the spaces of the Giorgio Cini Foundation. But this year, the experience takes on a new dimension: light becomes a narrative material, an element capable of guiding visitors through works, installations and the gestures of artisans.

The artistic direction is entrusted to Es Devlin, the British artist and designer known for her large-scale theatrical installations. Her vision brings light, materials and the human hand into dialogue, creating a journey in which craftsmanship is not simply displayed, but experienced.

Fifteen immersive installations mark the route across the island, alongside works by hundreds of artisans from different parts of the world. Ceramics, glass, textiles, wood, metal and other materials reveal the variety of contemporary craftsmanship, in an ongoing dialogue between tradition and experimentation.

Homo Faber is an invitation to look closely at the work of the artisan, to understand its rhythms, gestures and almost physical relationship with materials. Live demonstrations, workshops, talks and visits allow the public to enter the creative process and discover how, even today, the human hand can remain a protagonist in the age of industrial and digital production.

From the Island of San Giorgio, the journey opens out into the city. With Homo Faber In Città, Venice becomes an integral part of the event: exhibitions, events, talks and itineraries lead visitors to discover workshops and master artisans, bringing to light a heritage of skills that for centuries has been one of the deepest expressions of the lagoon city’s identity.

WHERE: Giorgio Cini Foundation, Island of San Giorgio Maggiore, Venice
OPEN: every day from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm
CLOSES: September 30
HOW TO GET THERE: take the train, then catch vaporetto line 2 and get off at San Giorgio Island.
FOR ALL INFORMATION: www.homofaber.com

WHERE TO STAY

Venice, as we know, is certainly not a cheap destination. There are, however, some good middle-ground options, and we would like to recommend a couple just a few steps from the Accademia stop on vaporetto line 2, which is essential for reaching our destination.

We are in the Dorsoduro sestiere, one of the areas of Venice where tourists have not yet become the dominant presence.

The addresses we suggest are also just a few minutes from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Accademia Galleries, and above all from the Basilica della Salute. Right next to the Basilica is Casa Sanlorenzo, which hosts two Homo Faber exhibitions dedicated to master artisans from Venice and the Veneto region.

The first is the Hotel American Dinesen, a very pleasant hotel overlooking a calle in Dorsoduro, 628. Tel. +39 041 520 4733 — www.hotelamerican.com

The second is directly opposite the hotel: B&B Suite735, at Dorsoduro 735/A. Tel. +39 041 520 8051 — www.suite735.com

WHERE TO EAT

There is plenty of choice, provided you keep an eye on the balance between quality and price. Staying in Dorsoduro:

The first is just a stone’s throw from the accommodation options mentioned above. Al Vecio Forner is a typical Venetian osteria, affected by the influx of tourists but still true to its culinary spirit and welcoming atmosphere. It is located at Dorsoduro 368, Tel. +39 041 521 0343, and is open every day (the kitchen closes at 10:30 pm).

The second is just a short walk away. Al Vecio Marangon, at Dorsoduro 1210 – Calle della Toletta, is a small restaurant with seating also available just outside. An excellent place for Venetian cuisine. Booking is essential, luck aside. Tel. +39 041 277 8554 — www.alveciomarangon.com

Third, also just a few steps away, we could not leave out a place for cichetti, as well as excellent freshly made sandwiches for lunch. Le Cantine del Vino Già Schiavi, at Fondamenta Nani 992, is one of the best Venetian bacari: a historic institution at the foot of the bridge leading to San Trovaso and opposite the historic squero.

Just a note: it is closed on Sundays. On other days it opens at 8:30 am and closes at 2:00 pm, reopening at 4:00 pm and closing at 8:30 pm. Tel. +39 041 523 0034 — www.cantinaschiavi.com

01 Sep

Posted at 10:18h in Art, Cities, Pictures & Exhibitions by

There is a different way of travelling: that of those who, when faced with a landscape, do not simply look, but feel the need to capture what they see on paper. This was the way of William Turner, the great English Romantic painter and tireless explorer who travelled between England, France and Italy.

Until September 27, Como pays tribute to this extraordinary artist with the exhibition “Turner. The Enchantment of Lake Como and the Italian Landscape”, a journey into the painter’s world through his works and travel notes.

Turner travelled with notebooks and sketchbooks, using them almost like a camera avant la lettre. With a few strokes, quick notes and delicate watercolours, he was able to capture whatever caught his eye: a mountain, the outline of a city, a sudden light, the reflection of the water, the changing sky.

And Lake Como itself was for Turner an inexhaustible source of emotions and inspiration. The Italian landscape, with its light, colours and the power of nature, became much more than a simple subject to portray: it was a visual experience that profoundly transformed his way of painting.

In his notebooks, travel thus takes the form of a visual memory: small sketches and watercolours, often created with the speed of a snapshot, which became precious testimonies of an era and, at the same time, the creative laboratory of one of the great masters of modern painting.

Visiting the exhibition therefore means not only admiring Turner, but travelling with Turner: following his gaze, rediscovering nineteenth-century Italy through his drawings and allowing oneself, once again, to be captivated by the enchantment of Lake Como.

The exhibition unfolds across two venues. At the Palazzo del Broletto, seven of the artist’s watercolours are on display, offering an insight into Turner’s extraordinary ability to portray landscape through light and colour. Here, visitors can also experience the immersive film “J. M. W. Turner: On the Wing”, dedicated to the artist’s life and travels.

At the Civic Art Gallery (Pinacoteca Civica), meanwhile, four large oil paintings complete the exhibition, offering a broader perspective on Turner’s painterly research and his relationship with the Italian landscape.

A journey, then, that begins with the small marks traced in notebooks and arrives at the large canvases: from the swift gesture of the travelling artist to the evocative power of his painting.

Organised by the City of Como and Tate London, with the exhibition project curated by Elisabeth Brooke.

WHERE: Palazzo del Broletto and Civic Art Gallery (Pinacoteca Civica)
OPEN: Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm
CLOSES: September 27
HOW TO GET THERE: by car, with parking behind the Courthouse, or by train, followed by a short walk along the lakeside
FOR ALL INFORMATION: www.oggiacomo.it

WHERE TO STAY

Como is known for its high-end hospitality and, as we know, it is not necessarily for every budget. That said, there are some interesting and original places worth considering.

The first is Bellavista Hotel & Ristorante, an original three-star hotel dating back to the late 19th century, designed in the Liberty style and recently renovated. Lovely rooms and a spectacular view over Lake Como. It can be reached by car or by funicular, whose station is just 10 metres away. Piazza Bonacossa, Brunate. Tel. +39.031.22.10.31 www.bellavistabrunate.com

The second is Trattoria Laghee in Cernobbio, which, besides being a restaurant, is also a quality B&B, strategically located. Rooms and information: +39.031.34.23.17 www.trattorialagheecernobbio.it

WHERE TO EAT

The choice is exceptionally wide, with a very high turnover of tables. Still, there are two places worth mentioning:

The first: just a stone’s throw from the Duomo, Ristorante Pepe Nero stands out for the high quality of its cuisine. While respecting the characteristics and needs of a tourist-oriented restaurant, it offers traditional dishes revisited with creativity, always with balance and care.

The pizza selection is also excellent. To complete the experience, the kindness and professionalism of the front-of-house staff are truly commendable: attentive and always ready to help.

Via Pietro Boldoni 26
Tel. +39.031.26.03.33
www.pepenerocomo.com

The second is also just a few steps from the Duomo. Osteria del Gallo is Como’s last remaining traditional osteria, authentic and welcoming. Genuine Lombard dishes, carefully prepared and served, followed by an excellent selection of desserts. A place away from the crowds, at Via Vitani 16.

Tel. +39.031.38.68.025
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