01 Sep Como. “The Enchantment of Lake Como and the Italian Landscape”
There is a different way of travelling: that of those who, when faced with a landscape, do not simply look, but feel the need to capture what they see on paper. This was the way of William Turner, the great English Romantic painter and tireless explorer who travelled between England, France and Italy.
Until September 27, Como pays tribute to this extraordinary artist with the exhibition “Turner. The Enchantment of Lake Como and the Italian Landscape”, a journey into the painter’s world through his works and travel notes.
Turner travelled with notebooks and sketchbooks, using them almost like a camera avant la lettre. With a few strokes, quick notes and delicate watercolours, he was able to capture whatever caught his eye: a mountain, the outline of a city, a sudden light, the reflection of the water, the changing sky.
And Lake Como itself was for Turner an inexhaustible source of emotions and inspiration. The Italian landscape, with its light, colours and the power of nature, became much more than a simple subject to portray: it was a visual experience that profoundly transformed his way of painting.
In his notebooks, travel thus takes the form of a visual memory: small sketches and watercolours, often created with the speed of a snapshot, which became precious testimonies of an era and, at the same time, the creative laboratory of one of the great masters of modern painting.
Visiting the exhibition therefore means not only admiring Turner, but travelling with Turner: following his gaze, rediscovering nineteenth-century Italy through his drawings and allowing oneself, once again, to be captivated by the enchantment of Lake Como.
The exhibition unfolds across two venues. At the Palazzo del Broletto, seven of the artist’s watercolours are on display, offering an insight into Turner’s extraordinary ability to portray landscape through light and colour. Here, visitors can also experience the immersive film “J. M. W. Turner: On the Wing”, dedicated to the artist’s life and travels.
At the Civic Art Gallery (Pinacoteca Civica), meanwhile, four large oil paintings complete the exhibition, offering a broader perspective on Turner’s painterly research and his relationship with the Italian landscape.
A journey, then, that begins with the small marks traced in notebooks and arrives at the large canvases: from the swift gesture of the travelling artist to the evocative power of his painting.
Organised by the City of Como and Tate London, with the exhibition project curated by Elisabeth Brooke.
WHERE: Palazzo del Broletto and Civic Art Gallery (Pinacoteca Civica)
OPEN: Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm
CLOSES: September 27
HOW TO GET THERE: by car, with parking behind the Courthouse, or by train, followed by a short walk along the lakeside
FOR ALL INFORMATION: www.oggiacomo.it
WHERE TO STAY
Como is known for its high-end hospitality and, as we know, it is not necessarily for every budget. That said, there are some interesting and original places worth considering.
The first is Bellavista Hotel & Ristorante, an original three-star hotel dating back to the late 19th century, designed in the Liberty style and recently renovated. Lovely rooms and a spectacular view over Lake Como. It can be reached by car or by funicular, whose station is just 10 metres away. Piazza Bonacossa, Brunate. Tel. +39.031.22.10.31 www.bellavistabrunate.com
The second is Trattoria Laghee in Cernobbio, which, besides being a restaurant, is also a quality B&B, strategically located. Rooms and information: +39.031.34.23.17 www.trattorialagheecernobbio.it
WHERE TO EAT
The choice is exceptionally wide, with a very high turnover of tables. Still, there are two places worth mentioning:
The first: just a stone’s throw from the Duomo, Ristorante Pepe Nero stands out for the high quality of its cuisine. While respecting the characteristics and needs of a tourist-oriented restaurant, it offers traditional dishes revisited with creativity, always with balance and care.
The pizza selection is also excellent. To complete the experience, the kindness and professionalism of the front-of-house staff are truly commendable: attentive and always ready to help.
Via Pietro Boldoni 26
Tel. +39.031.26.03.33
www.pepenerocomo.com
The second is also just a few steps from the Duomo. Osteria del Gallo is Como’s last remaining traditional osteria, authentic and welcoming. Genuine Lombard dishes, carefully prepared and served, followed by an excellent selection of desserts. A place away from the crowds, at Via Vitani 16.
Tel. +39.031.38.68.025
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